OMIYA CONNECT -KYOTO- | 近江屋株式会社

PRODUCTS
SANJIKU
STORY

Kyo Kumihimo is a craft technique to make braided string from threads. Its history is believed go back more than a thousand years. The elegant braided strings have been used for decorations in temples and shrines and for fashion accessories for the Imperial Family of Japan. Forty years ago, an Obi artisan saw a complex weaving machine being used to make Italian torchon lace, which is weaved using braiding techniques similar to Japanese Kumihimo. He came up with the idea to weave Obi material incorporating Kumihimo technique. He developed a special weaving machine and started making Obi. That was the origin of Sanjiku silk textiles. The SANJIKU brand developed from that.

京都に1000年以上前に誕生したといわれる「京くみひも」。糸を交互に交差させて組みながら紐に仕上げていくというものです。寺社の装飾や天皇家などの装身具に使われていました。40年ほど前、日本の組紐と同じく組んで織りあげるイタリアのトーションレースを織る機械を見たある帯職人がこの機械をヒントに組み織りの技術を応用して帯をつくりたいと思いました。そのときできた織機で帯をつくりはじめたのたのが、三軸(=SANJIKU)のはじまりです。

CONCEPT

The weaving machine turned out to be a huge circular machine, measuring five meters in diameter and standing three meters high. Six machines were built, but only two of them still exist. Both are now in operation in Kyoto. More than 480 bobbins are arranged in a circle. Artisans need to constantly monitor to make sure that the threads do not lose proper tension or create a problem. Delicate gradations of color and intricate patterns are unique characteristics of Sanjiku silk. These are created by using paper punch cards with many small holes to define the complex patterns for weaving. These days, most textiles are woven using digital instructions, but these traditional machines can only use paper punch cards to produce patterns. The results of this traditional method are stunning and unparalleled.

出来上がった織機は直径5m、高さは3mにもなる巨大な円形の織機でした。最初は6台あったこの織機も、今では京都(世界に)にたった2台残るのみ。環状線上に差し込まれたボビンの数は約480本。職人たちはピンッと張られた糸に緩みや不具合がでないよう常に見張っています。三軸ならではの繊細な色のグラデーションや複雑な模様を作っているのは細かい穴がたくさん開いた紋紙と言われるもの。今ではデータ化されたデザイン柄が主流ですが、このレトロな織機は紋紙でなければ柄を出すことができないのです。

BIRTHPLACE

The birthplace of Sanjiku is Kameoka City. It is about a one-hour drive from Kyoto City. Kameoka City is in a basin surrounded by farms and beautiful green mountains. The area is famous for the deep layer of mist that fills the basin from late fall to early spring. That mist provides the perfect level of humidity for textile weaving with the Sanjiku technique, which applies strong tension to the silk threads. From a distance, you can hear the rhythmic sound of weaving machines at the far end of the scenic country road.

三軸の産地、亀岡市は京都市から出て車で1時間ほど離れたところにあります。田畑と緑の気持ちいい山々に囲まれた盆地で、特に晩秋から早春にかけて深い霧が発生することでも有名です。この霧が、強いテンションをかけて組み織る三軸の布地にほどよい湿気をもたらしてくれます。なめらかなあぜ道の続く京都のはずれで、今日もガッシャガッシャとリズミカルな音が響いています。

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